The rainbow never sets

and the anxiety of the night before.

I never saw the Trade Commissioner until the following day. He came to pick me up at the hotel and we went to the airport to clear his things through customs. He was also very helpful supplying me with addresses of spinning mills and giving me useful hints for business. The strike lasted for four days, but conditions had eased considerably by the second day, and I was able to visit some of the mills on my list.

After about four solid days of visiting, I continued on my next part of the journey. I caught a train to Kanpur, first class air conditioned sleeper, the top range of seats available, and the most comfortable way to travel apart from air travel.

The trip to Kanpur took about 36 hours. I booked into the only hotel available, which was of quite poor standard. It had no air conditioning, and since the monsoon had not yet come to Kanpur, it was stinking hot. My bed was under the fan, and every hour or so I had to go under the shower to let the fan dry me. This way I got at least a few hours of sleep.

Our client in Kanpur was Cawnpore Woollen Mills, a huge mill, formerly part of the British India Corporation. It was still run under the old colonial system. The buyer was a very pleasant Englishman, who invited me to dinner at his home. The servants had laid a table outside in their spacious garden. A fan provided some cooling air in the otherwise stifling atmosphere. A waiter served us with a most delicious meal. I could imagine the British enjoying such a lifestyle for centuries. My host insisted that on my next visit I must stay in their company's guest house, which was far superior to the local hotel.

As Kanpur was not far from Agra, I decided to make a side trip to see the Taj Mahal. Even though I had bought a first-class ticket, the compartment had only open windows, letting in soot and dust. The six seats were jammed with about 18 passengers. I don't know how I managed to eat my lunch there. I had ordered a non-vegetarian meal from a railway officer, and when it came it was all very well presented, with several side dishes, all very chilli hot but extremely nice. I thoroughly enjoyed this meal on the train, not giving much thought to the poor people who were travelling in fourth class, some had even climbed on the roof of the carriages. It would have been an understatement to describe this train as overcrowded.

In Agra I hired a bicycle rickshaw to take me to the Taj. I felt sorry for the poor chap pulling me, as it was very hot and the perspiration was dripping from his bare back. I told him to go slowly, but I don't think it made any difference.

The Taj Mahal itself was magnificent. Although it was still in the hot part of the day, when most people stayed indoors, the mausoleum certainly cast its spell over me. What wonderful architecture, what brilliant marble! I could see why people called it one of the great wonders of the world.

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