The rainbow never sets

At least this way we could be sure to get our dinner. For sweets we shared a tin of pears, the last of our supply from Beijing. Thanks to THE LONELY PLANET, we never had to starve on board the train.

The atmosphere on this Trans-Siberian train was quite wonderful. We knew most passengers in our car, if not by name, certainly by face. There was a Japanese male student who had taken a year off from studies heading for Europe, India, and Israel. He was fond of practising karate chops on his friend. After a well-placed kick in his sternum his friend fell off his bunk, but luckily, there were no injuries. A Chinese mother and son with nephew returned to Russia from a family re-union in Hong Kong. They had been on an extended shopping spree. When they left the train in Novosibirsk for Alma Ata, near the Chinese border, parcels after parcels appeared on the platform. I never knew one could travel with so much luggage!

Then there was an Englishman from Newcastle returning after eight months globe-trotting, and two German-Swiss boys who kept much to themselves as their English was not too good. I had a few chats with them in German, which they seemed to appreciate. Sophia came from Moscow, a very vivacious and friendly lady. I think she was an actor. She was about 40, and had usually quite an international gathering around her. When I heard lots of laughter from her cabin, I would join them sometimes. Through my almost forgotten Polish and rather limited Russian, I was able to interpret when the conversation got bogged down. Once I just missed out on a tea and vodka party! The German couple we had met in the bus to the Great Wall, were also on the train, but they were travelling soft class, which meant that we only saw each other at stations.

I had bought a pack of very small patience cards especially for this train trip, but I don't think I used it very much. There was always something to do, and we didn't get bored at all. Occasionally I would read, often I would just stand in the corridor and look out of the window or chat with the other passengers.

We arrived in Moscow on Friday, 10 July in the afternoon, perhaps an hour and a half later than scheduled. Not bad for a trip through a whole continent. Don and Leslie were met by an Intourist officer. He told us that only Intourist had the authority to allocate hotel beds for foreigners. What a difference to China! He gave us the address in the city and told us to catch the Metro, only a few stations to Marx Prospect.

We took our suitcases over our shoulders and walked in peak hour to the overcrowded station. I was lucky to be able to read Russian and to get on the right train. At the Intourist office they wanted to give us a room for 185 Rubles, which was about $US180. With a bit of gentle persuasion they made a couple of phone calls and offered us eventually a room in the Berlin Hotel for 36 Rubles. We were jubilant. Persistency paid, even in Russia. The only condition was that we had to pay it in US dollars, i.e. $54, which we had in cash. The Berlin was quite close to the Intourist office, so

444